Sunday, January 29, 2006

Michael Chabon's Berkeley.

[T]his town drives me crazy. Nowhere else in America are so many people obliged to suffer more inconvenience for the common good. Nowhere else is the individual encumbered with a greater burden of shame and communal disapproval for having intruded, however innocently, on the sensibilities of another. Berkeley's streets, though a rational nineteenth-century grid underlies them, are a speed-busting tangle of artificial dead ends, obligatory left turns and deliberately tortuous obstacle-course barriers known as chicanes, put in place to protect children -- who are never (God forbid!) sent to play outside. Municipal ordinances intended to protect the nobility of labor in Berkeley's attractive old industrial district steadfastly prevent new-economy businesses from taking over the aging brick-and-steel structures -- leaving them empty cenotaphs to the vanished noble laborer of other days. People in the grocery store, meanwhile, have the full weight of Berkeley society behind them as they take it upon themselves to scold you for exposing your child to known allergens or imposing on her your own indisputably negative view of the universe. Passersby feel empowered -- indeed, they feel duty-bound -- to criticize your parking technique, your failure to sort your recycling into brown paper and white, your resource-hogging four-wheel-drive vehicle, your use of a pinch -collar to keep your dog from straining at the leash.

When Berkeley does not feel like some kind of vast exercise in collective dystopia -- a kind of left-wing Plymouth Plantation in which a man may been pilloried for over-illuminating his house at Christmastime -- then paradoxically it often feels like a place filled with people incapable of feeling or acting in concert with each other. It is a city of potterers and amateur divines, of people so intent on cultivating their own gardens, researching their own theories, following their own bliss, marching to their own drummers and dancing to the tinkling of their own finger-cymbals that they take no notice of one another at all, or would certainly prefer not to, if it could somehow be arranged. People keep chickens, in Berkeley -- there are two very loud henhouses within a block of my house. There may be no act more essentially Berkeley than deciding that the rich flavor and healthfulness, the simple, forgotten pleasure, of fresh eggs in the morning outweighs the unreasonable attachment of one's immediate neighbors to getting a good night's sleep.
Michael Chabon, "Berkeley," in Donna Wares, ed., My California 106-08 (Angel City Press, 2004).

Ah yes, the chickens.

Comments:
And yet worth it, just for the cornmeal cherry scones at the Cheese Board. Anyway, the cluck of a chicken is but a whisper beside shreiking deathly yowl of the peacocks, of which Berkeley once had a couple.
 
Or the beef jerky at Cafe Rouge's meat market and the iced Blue Bottle coffee next door at Tacubaya.

(Don't get me started.)
 
Have you read Chabon's recent post on the lost Wilderness of Childhood? It's in the current NYRB and is quite good.

http://www.nybooks.com/articles/22891

"What is the impact of the closing down of the Wilderness on the development of children's imaginations? This is what I worry about the most. I grew up with a freedom, a liberty that now seems breathtaking and almost impossible. Recently, my younger daughter, after the usual struggle and exhilaration, learned to ride her bicycle. Her joy at her achievement was rapidly followed by a creeping sense of puzzlement and disappointment as it became clear to both of us that there was nowhere for her to ride it—nowhere that I was willing to let her go. Should I send my children out to play?

There is a small grocery store around the corner, not over two hundred yards from our front door. Can I let her ride there alone to experience the singular pleasure of buying herself an ice cream on a hot summer day and eating it on the sidewalk, alone with her thoughts? Soon after she learned to ride, we went out together after dinner, she on her bike, with me following along at a safe distance behind. What struck me at once on that lovely summer evening, as we wandered the streets of our lovely residential neighborhood at that after-dinner hour that had once represented the peak moment, the magic hour of my own childhood, was that we didn't encounter a single other child.

Even if I do send them out, will there be anyone to play with?"

FH

p.s. After spending a week in Denver exurbia, you realize how little of America is pedestrian-scaled: Berkeley has sidewalks, cafes, and quiet streets; I walk to the butcher, the coffee shop and the movie theater. Once you spend a week in Mallville, you'll yearn for the lash of your Berkeley neighbor's nosy whip.
 
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